Shopping Guide – Beginner rock climbing

To get started as a beginner rock climber, you’ll want the following:

Momentum Package - Men's

These items will be all you need to climb in a climbing gym or with friends who have other gear (rope, anchors, etc.) outside.

Remember to buy your gear at 20% or more off when sale prices or coupons are available. If possible, use an ActiveJunky.com store for additional cash back. Read more about this in the Discount Shopping Guide.

Harness

1. Harness PACKAGE options: 

  • Black Diamond Momentum Package – $99.95 full price

Men’s Black Diamond Momentum Harness Package

Women’s Black Diamond Momentum Harness Package

Go to your local REI or climbing gear store and try on this harness and compare it to how different styles and brands feel (see comparison options below). If this Momentum harness fits you well, according to sales rep at the store, and if it doesn’t feel worse than the other choices, go with the Momentum. Go ahead and purchase the Momentum package, unless you know you want a different kind of belay device, such as for multi-pitch climbing (see ATC-Guide below).

KIT CORAX

Petzl makes great gear.  Small differences in this package include a lighter but less durable Petzl Verso belay device (as compared to ATC) and a Petzl carabiner with a convenient red mark indicating whether or not it is locked properly.

2. INDIVIDUAL harness options: Budget Prices

  • Black Diamond Momentum Harness – $56.95 full price

Men’s Black Diamond Momentum Harness

Women’s Black Diamond Momentum Harness

  • Black Diamond Momentum DS Harness – $69.95 full price

Black Diamond Momentum DS Harness

The Momentum DS has a dual buckle system that offers more adjustability and range of fit. It appears they don’t offer a women’s version of the DS.

Check out other harnesses if BD Momentum harnesses don’t seem to fit your body well.  

  • Petzl Corax – $59.95 full price; entry-level Petzl harness

Petzl Corax Harness

For more information, here’s a good review of the Petzl Corax.

  • Petzl Sama – $69.95 full price: more comfortable, geared for sport-climbing

Petzl Sama Harness

For more information, here’s a good review of the Petzl Sama.

  • Edelrid Jay and Jayne – $59.95 full price: entry-level harnesses for men and women

Edelrid Jay Harness

Edelrid Jayne Harness

  • Black Diamond Solution Harness – $69.95 full price: more comfortable, sport-climbing

Men’s Black Diamond Solution Harness

Women’s Black Diamond Solution Harness

3. INDIVIDUAL harness options: Higher Prices

Consider these affordable options if you’ll be wanting to get into to trad climbing and will want more gear loop space.

  • Black Diamond Solution Guide Harness – $99.95 full price: trad-climbing

Men’s Black Diamond Solution Guide Harness

Women’s Black Diamond Solution Guide Harness

  • Petzl Adjama Harness – $79.95 full price: trad-climbing

Petzl Adjama Harness

Belay Device

If you’re new to climbing, keep it simple & learn to belay with a tubular style device.

Black Diamond tubular style belay devices:

You can add in brake-assisted options later. You’ll also likely rappel with a tubular device, after you transition to outdoor climbing, so it won’t go to waste if you buy a second device. Many seasoned climbers will have a tubular device to use for rappelling and a brake-assisted device for belaying.

If you’re a beginner climber, at this point, you can easily narrow your belay device choices to two options:

  • ATC-XP belay/rappel device – $21.95 full price, 2.26 oz

Black Diamond ATC-XP belay/rappel device:

  • ATC-GUIDE belay/rappel device – $29.95 full price, 2.82 oz

Black Diamond ATC-GUIDE belay/rappel device:

The ATC-Guide has an anchor hole that allows for belaying from above, which is useful in multi-pitch climbing. You may not know whether or not you’ll be climbing multi-pitch routes before your device wears out, but the extra $8 and ½ oz isn’t much to add if you want to plan ahead. 

Other popular tubular style devices

  • Petzl Verso – $19.95 full price and Reverso – $29.95 full price

These are similar to the Black Diamond ATC-XP and ATC-Guide, respectively. Anecdotally speaking, the Petzls perform similarly, are lighter in weight but also don’t last as long. 

Petzl Verso belay/rappel device:

Petzl Reverso belay/rappel device:

Assisted braking belay devices

  • Petzl GRIGRI – $109.95, 6.17 oz. Popular option.

The GRIGRI is a tried and true assisted braking device with smooth lowering action. Feeding out rope to your leader requires practice and technique though.  Downsides are cost and weight.

If you want a GRIGRI, this is the one to get. It’s now simply called the GRIGRI.  I don’t think you need to bother with the safety features of the GRIGRI+. Just make sure you know how to use it properly.

Petzl GRIGRI belay device:

For more information, here’s a good review of the Petzl GRIGRI.

The older models were referred to as the GRIGRI 1 and GRIGRI 2. The GRIGRI 2 is still quite useful if you can find one on sale. REI had them on sale for $50 over Labor Day, 2019. 

The next three belay devices are good options to reap the benefits of assisted braking at more affordable prices and less weight. 

When you use these types of devices, the carabiner you match it with makes a difference in how it performs. Make sure to use a belay specific carabiner by checking with the manufacturer instructions. (more on this below in the Carabiner section).

  • Mammut Smart 2.0 – $44.95 full price, 2.82 oz

Mammut Smart 2.0 belay device:

For more information, here’s a good review of the Mammut Smart 2.0.

I use the Mammut Smart 2.0 and I really like it!  I found it on sale at Sierra for less than $25 (purple color is only option at Sierra).  It is my new go-to device for lead belaying. I use their recommended belay carabiner for this device, the Smart HMS carabiner. You can get both as a package, along with a beginner safety device called the Smarter, which is a removable add-on.

  • Mammut Smarter Belay Package – $59.95 full price

Mammut Smarter Belay Package:

  • Black Diamond ATC Pilot – $44.95 full price, 3.25 oz

Black Diamond ATC Pilot belay device:

For more information, here’s a good review of the Black Diamond ATC Pilot.

I have only tried the BD ATC-Pilot once and I found it nice to use. However, I noticed a tiny bit of slip when holding a climber at rest. I personally disagree with one point in the OutdoorgearLab reviews, that the ATC Pilot has a better Catch and Bite than the Mammut Smart 2.0. Note though that they mention they didn’t use the recommended Smart HMS carabiner with the Smart 2.0. In the future, I’d like to try the ATC Pilot again and do a better comparison between it and the Mammut Smart 2.0.

  • Edelrid Mega Jul – $39.95 full price, 2.29 oz

Edelrid Mega Jul belay/rappel device:

For more information, here’s a good review of the Edelrid Mega Jul.

I think the Mega Jul has potential to be useful, but I’ve never tried it. As the review calls it, though, “The jack of all trades in belay devices, yet master of none.”  I know some people who like it, but I hear the rappelling action is more rigorous. I’d rather use an ATC for rappel, and then carry another device for brake-assist.

Belay device wear and safety. If you use a tubular device for belaying and rappelling, chances are you will wear them out over time. It is IMPORTANT TO INSPECT your belay device on occasion for EXCESSIVE WEAR leading to very SHARP EDGES. Don’t hesitate to replace them when the edges are getting sharp enough to cause concern about damaging the rope.  

Locking belay carabiner

Carabiners designed for belaying will be locking carabiners and often have a larger pear-shape. This isn’t always true, such as for the GRIGRI (see below), so be sure to check manufacturer recommendations for the belay device and the carabiner to ensure a proper match.

From an REI website, How to Choose Carabiners, “You’ll sometimes hear these [pear-shaped] called HMS carabiners, and some are even marked with HMS on the spine. HMS indicates that the carabiner is designed with a wide, more symmetrical top that works well with a Münter hitch.”

For all devices, except the GRIGRI:

  • Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate Carabiner – $11.95 full price, 3.0 oz

Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate Carabiner:

The BD RockLock Screwgate is a solid option for most belay devices, including the following that I’ve mentioned: all Black Diamond belay devices, Petzl Verso and Reverso, Mammut Smart 2.0 and Edelrid Mega Jul.  This is a new and improved design from Black Diamond.

The notable exception is the GRIGRI because according to Petzl: “Beware of pear-shaped carabiners, which in this application have a tendency to rotate and often become poorly positioned.”

However, I’ve used pear-shaped carabiners, including the RockLock, to attach a GRIGRI to my harness plenty of times. Just make sure not to “cross-load” the carabiner. Something to be aware of.

See an example of  “cross-loaded” carabiners in the Minor Axis Loading images from Petzl below. The first example shows the carabiner cross-loaded with a GRIGRI on the harness during belay. Also note, the GRIGRI can get jammed or wedged on the side of a carabiner, depending on the shape.

 MINOR AXIS LOADING

A carabiner loaded on the minor axis is weak: only 35 % of the major axis strength (e.g. 8 kN instead of 27 kN on the major axis for the Am’D).

Belay carabiner for a Petzl GRIGRI:

The Petzl web site recommends one of 4 of their carabiners for the attachment of a GRIGRI to a harness. Of those, I recommend the one the lowest cost and weight option:

  • Petzl SPIRIT Screw-Lock carabiner – $15.95 full price; 1.6 oz

Petzl Spirit Screw-Lock Carabiner:

Petzl suggests that the GRIGRI is better suited to D-shaped carabiners (not pear shaped).  There are other carabiners on the market for less than $15.95, but I still recommend this option because of the helpful safety feature you’ll see on Petzl carabiners. In the photo, you can see the easy to check red visual indicator that facilitates checking that the carabiner is locked.

A more affordable alternative belay carabiner for the GRIGRI could be the new Black Diamond Hotforge Screwgate carabiner. It has a similar shape to the Petzl Spirit Screw-Lock.

  • Black Diamond Hotforge Screwgate carabiner – $10.95 full price; 1.76 oz

Black Diamond Hotforge Screwgate carabiner:

Other belay carabiner options (for all devices except GRIGRI):

  • For a lighter weight option, checkout the Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner – $14.95 full price, 1.8 oz

Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner:

The downside with the VaporLock is a smaller carabiner with a touch less versatility – “Munter Hitch compatible on ropes up to 9.4 mm”.  Your first rope will likely be larger than 9.4 mm. A Munter Hitch can be useful in a multi-pitch scenario if you drop your belay device. However, by the time you’re climbing multi-pitch, you’ll likely have more gear on hand, including a larger carabiner like the RockLock.

  • If you like the Petzl carabiners and plan to use a tubular style device, checkout the Petzl Am’D Screw-Lock Carabiner – $15.95 full price, 2.5 oz

Petzl Am’D Screw-Lock Carabiner:

The Am’D is bigger than the VaporLock but smaller than the RockLock. It can accommodate a Munter Hitch better than a VaporLock but it isn’t really designed for that.

If you’re a beginner and won’t be climbing multi-pitch anytime soon, I wouldn’t worry about Munter Hitch compatibility at this point.

No matter which belay device and carabiner combination you choose, make sure you’re using the devices correctly and checking to make sure that you’re not cross-loading the carabiner. This becomes easy to do with practice.  

Chalk bag and chalk

If you bought the Momentum package deal, you’re set for now.  If not, select any bag that suits you.

Either way, you have a decision to make regarding how to wear it.

Chalk bag attachment: waist belt vs. carabiner

You can wear the chalk bag using the provided belt or attach the bag to your harness with a carabiner or similar. Black Diamond recommends you use the belt.

However many, including me, attach their chalk bag directly to the harness.  I like knowing the bag is always in the same general area, even if it’s hanging a little low behind me. Personal preference.

If you attach the chalk bag to your harness, there can be a challenge when attaching it depending on how the straps on the bag and harness are oriented. Pay attention to this before you purchase the chalk bag. This isn’t an issue for the Momentum package, but it is for the Corax Kit and it could be for other harness and bag pairings.

Chalk type: loose chalk vs. chalk ball

Another eventual choice to make is between loose chalk and a chalk ball (Black Diamond calls it a “chalk shot”, Metolius calls it a “chalk sock”).  

  • Black Diamond Loose White Gold Chalk 100 GM – $6.50 full priced

Black Diamond Loose White Gold Chalk:

  • Black Diamond Refillable White Gold Chalk Shot – $6.50 full priced

Black Diamond Refillable White Gold Chalk Shot:

I prefer the less messy chalk ball, but I don’t use as much chalk as others do. 

Note, I’ve seen one gym ask you that not have loose chalk, but in this case they will provide a chalk ball for you if that’s all you have.

Climbing Shoes

Admittedly, shopping for climbing shoes will often be the most difficult process. So much of it depends on the shape of your anatomy and other personal preferences.

I hope I’ve been able to simplify things for you so far. For shoes, it’s best to find a local climbing store, preferably one that has a small climbing wall in it for you try out the shoes on. REI doesn’t usually have a climbing wall you can do this on, but definitely use whatever is available to see what it’s like to balance on little foot holds. REI often has a little hiking “mountain” that they offer hiking boot fitting.

I also recommend renting climbing shoes (bring socks!) at a local gym to get a feel for different pairs. While your there, ask the staff for advice for proper fit and don’t hesitate to try to different sizes, styles and brands at the gym.

Shopping for shoes. Coming soon.

At this point, you should have all you need to start rock climbing in a gym or with friends who have other gear outside.

For sport climbing gear: coming soon

For trad climbing gear: coming soon

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